Remove Leaves: Garden Care in Autumn

Remove Leaves: Garden Care in Autumn

Fall is a beautiful time of the year, but it can also be quite messy. Leaf season is here and you have to deal with all those leaves in your yard! Leaf blowers are a great way to remove leaves from your yard quickly and effectively. However, if leaf blowers aren’t an option for you then a garden rake will do the job just as well. In this blog post, we’ll go over both ways to rid yourself of these pesky leaves so that they’re out of sight, out of mind!

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How to Vermicompost With Nightcrawler Worms

How to Vermicompost With Nightcrawler Worms

African nightcrawlersA part of worm lovers may ask how to vermicompost with nightcrawler worms? All things considered, there are really two basic sorts of nightcrawler worms, the European nightcrawlers and the African nightcrawlers. To find out about these two, we should peruse on further beneath.

What is Vermicomposting?

Indeed, vermicomposting is really a characteristic type of reusing natural squanders. You essentially use worms to make this cycle run its course. These worms at that point transform these natural pieces into a rich dark soil material, which you can later on use to enhance your plants and soil (among different advantages).

The European Nightcrawler

As recently referenced, there are sorts of nightcrawler worms, and the European kind would be one of them. Presently this nightcrawler type can even now be utilized for fertilizing the soil. Yet, it has been seen that nursery workers incline toward utilizing red worms, over the Europeans worms, particularly when it concerns vermicomposting. In spite of the fact that it can at present be utilized for fertilizing the soil. They can even now make for good fertilizing the soil worms by circulating air through and treat the dirt. Other than that, they additionally help make tunnels of passages, to permit air and water to stream into the framework. They are likewise the best worms to make as fish lure. In any case, other than that, they are additionally acceptable as live worm nourishment for an assortment of winged creatures, reptiles and creatures of land and water.

African Nightcrawler

Among other nightcrawler types, the African nightcrawler is likewise a typical one with regards to treating the soil. African nightcrawlers, otherwise called Eudrilus Eugeniae, is a typical business worm. It tends to be utilized as snare for fish, and furthermore for fertilizing the soil. These African worms can be found in treating the soil containers and worm cultivates; and can likewise deliver its own group of rich worm castings, much the same as Red Wiggler worms. It is through vermicomposting that worm fertilizers are made. The worm fertilizing the soil cycle fundamentally helps in the separating of breaking down natural materials (a mix of kitchen scraps and nursery squanders). Also, much the same as the European worms, they also can deliver a natural and supplement rich fertilizer.

When raising nightcrawlers, you should know about their different commitments in the nursery. You can just depend on them to do the accompanying things:

They help in the separating of natural squanders into a truly significant (dark soil) manure, which can be utilized as a natural compost for your plants and soil

They help improve the dirt’s structure, just as upgrade the development of plants

They help circulate air through the dirt, which permits enough air and water to stream into the arrangement (of your grass or nursery)

They additionally help a great deal in the vermicomposting cycle by having a major influence in the reusing cycle

Anyway, whenever you hear the inquiry, how to vermicompost with nightcrawler worms? You ought to have the option to enhance the appropriate responses before long. Also, in the event that you need to find out about the kinds of nightcrawlers, you may essentially peruse on our past article about it.

You certainly won’t turn out badly with our european nightcrawlers for fishing! These Super Red Worms are anything but difficult to raise; and are warmth and cold safe. Other than that, they breed truly quick; and are additionally incredible for utilizing as fish trap.

How to Transplant Strawberries

How to Transplant Strawberries


I find strawberries to be pretty forgiving, particularly if they are pretty happy in your soil anyways.

They have been going crazy.

In my garden, I planted a bunch in this corner last year, as well as in my larger back to Eden garden.

And the hope is for these to act as ground cover for the garden, so they will choke out any other weeds or at least most of them.

As you can see in the areas where the strawberries are growing you see some of these, which are kind of a weed, but kind of not.

They’re also edible.

So I kind of let them go.

But there aren’t a lot of weeds growing in between them compared to say in the back where there aren’t in any.

So as they’ve been growing, they’ve been growing this direction and I’m trying to create a boundary around here.

I’ve got some wood started and I’m going to be weaving the fencing in and out.

So I’m trying to go along with my, I don’t know, my trimmer here and just cut a little path.

However, I didn’t want to kill any of the strawberries that are coming in here.

So what I’m doing is I’m digging them out and I’m transplanting it to other part of the garden…

Other parts of the garden.

It’s early spring.

We’re getting a lot of rain right now.

The one thing you need to know about transplanting strawberries is you need to make sure they get watered quite a bit after you initially transplant them.

So you want to make sure you have a good mulch on top.

We have pine straw here.

It’s not new it’s from last year.

But because we’re getting so much rain, this is a good time to transplant them.

I transplanted a few last year in the late summer, and they dried out or a lot of them dried out, so most of them didn’t come back.

So I want to do it now.

Try to move some of these towards the back and also into some of those other areas to encourage more growth throughout the whole garden because if these connect as ground cover, they’re also producing fruit for us to eat and they’re pretty.

So I like to work smarter not harder when it comes to gardening.

And this is what you’d call a living mulch.

Kind of like you put pine straw down, or wood chips, or traditional mulch, you can put live plants down to cover the ground to prevent weeds from growing through or to prevent as many weeds from growing through.

So of course we’ve done strawberries.

I actually have some thyme, some creeping thyme, on the other half of the garden that’s growing.

And this is one of my favorite things to do because it does reduce how much work you do.

And you have a beautiful garden, you have an edible garden.

These are edible, I think they’re wild garlic.

I think people chop them for in salads and stuff.

You have to know what you’re looking for, but you can tell cause it has a smell to it.

So yeah.

So I’m gonna show you what I’m doing.

Basically, all you need to do is find the ones that you’re trying to dig out.

And I’m trying to be careful cause I have some wild strawberries growing and they don’t taste good.

And I don’t want those.

I don’t want to transplant those in my garden.

They’re pretty…

They grow as well as the regular ones and I don’t want them in them.

I don’t wanna have to figure out what’s real strawberry and what’s not.

Okay, so what you’re trying to do is you’re trying to get under this here.

So this is one runner of the strawberry plant.

And as I’m going along, I’m just picking out any weeds that come in cause I don’t really want to transplant the weeds too although clover’s not bad for your garden either.

But as you can see, let me see if I have one that I pulled out that’s just…

So there’s kinda like a ball here, and I guess you’d call that maybe the root ball, but there’s like an area that’s thicker and you start seeing roots coming out, you want to make sure you get as much as that as possible.

And you’re probably gonna run into situations where you have little runners attaching one plant to another, and I break those, it’s not a big deal.

Try not to damage the other plant in one.

Of course, but you just break them, it’s fine.

So as you see, I’m just trying to dig under as well as I can.

And see that runner here?

This is the runner that connects the original plant to this one cause they grow off each other.

They don’t spread by seed, it’s not like that.


Let me see if I can find some.

They kind of send little shoots off with new plants.

So I’m digging as many as I can cause I do love strawberries and I want to not destroy any and I want to encourage them to grow everywhere.

So pretty basic, not a big deal.

I don’t think I need to get into it much more.

I mean, you can kind of see again here we gotta… And you can see this is kind of drying up.

I think that’s just part of the natural process.

It doesn’t need that for nutrition or anything so.

And again, I’m trying to get as far back from the edge of the garden, cause I don’t want it to… Um.

And you could try pulling but I’m trying to be careful here cause I don’t wanna ruin any plants.

They’re kind of expensive to buy.

I mean, not really expensive but…

This year if I can transplant these and get them watered, I’m looking at actually having some strawberries versus if I order we’re gonna be waiting for a year or two before I’m actually getting a good crop, I would assume.

So as you can see this came with a lot of other weeds.

That’s why it was harder to get through.

And it’s also, you could see the former owner here put in a different kind of…

What do you call it?

The weed fabric.

I hate this stuff.

It makes it really hard to pull plants out and transplant them.

It’s hard to pull weeds.

The weeds kind of grow their, they grow their roots into this stuff and it kinda sticks around for a while.

I guess, breaks down over time hopefully.

But I don’t, I don’t love it.

So I don’t put that down.

And again, I don’t mind the clover so much, but I’m going to pull some of it back so I can see what’s going on under there a little better.

And again you’re just looking through and you’re looking for where it goes into the ground before you dig.


So actually this is a really good one.

You can see all the soil’s away from this, but you can see I got a really good section of root and I got the ball where kind of, it comes together, all the little individual pieces.

And nothing really broke off.

Okay, I’m gonna go take these and put them in another part of the garden now.

Okay, so what I did is I found some spots that were a little bit bare in my garden and I’m just trying to dig a nice deep hole.

Not deep, deep, but trying to create a spot for them.

You don’t need it to be too deep.

Just needs to be deep enough to cover the root.

Strawberries are ridiculous and pretty forgiving in my opinion.

I’m sure somebody will disagree, but I find them pretty forgiving, especially in our particular soil and I think the pine mulch probably helps.

Picking up trash that dropped from Christmas decorations.

So I feel like you can kind of abuse them a little bit.

What I’m trying to do is because I know this is early in the season, I think they’ll spread.

I’m trying to give them a little bit of space that way I can kind of space them out and use them in different areas not just right here.

I have quite a few of these though so it’s not super pressing.

I guess I could plant them pretty close if I wanted, but again they will grow back here.

Once I’ve done this I’m gonna go ahead and water them and just make sure they stay wet over the next few days.

Let them get established in here.

Once I see they’re growing and happy, I can just let nature do its thing.

And again, we’ll probably put some more mulch down in here at some point.

I haven’t decided whether I want to go back to regular mulch or if I want to stick with pine straw.

I like pine straw cause
it’s very lightweight


There we go.

It’s easy to move compared to mulch, but here we go.




Collection, Storage and Processing of Apples

Collection, Storage and Processing of Apples

Aah, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness!

If you’re lucky enough to have an apple tree groaning with fruit like this one, then you’ll want to make the most of this seasonal abundance.

In this video, we’ll show you when and how to pick apples and the best ways of storing and preserving them.

You’ve been waiting all season and finally the moment of truth has arrived – sweet and crunchy apples ready for picking!

But how do you know they are ready to harvest?

Well, nature offers us some clues.

Apples are ready when the skin color deepens.

Fruits at the sides and top of the tree usually ripen first because they receive more sunlight.

Ripe fruit should easily come away from the tree, while the presence of windfalls is a sure sign that you can start harvesting.

If in doubt, a simple taste test should confirm whether your apples are fit to pick!

The best way to pick an apple is to cup it in the palm of your hand, lift it up, then give it a gentle twist until it comes away.

Each apple should detach complete with its stalk.

Always handle apples carefully to avoid bruising the delicate flesh, and never tug an apple from a tree or you could damage the fruiting spurs or cause apples nearby to drop.

Take care when picking apples from higher up.

Use a stepladder, and avoid over-reaching or you could lose your balance.

Remember, not all apples are ready at the same time, so pick regularly as individual clusters ripen.

Only store mid- or late-season apples.

Early-season varieties don’t keep, and are best eaten soon after picking.

Mid-season varieties should keep for a few weeks, while late-season varieties will stay in good condition for anywhere up to 6 months.

Apples destined for storage must be perfect, with no bruises or blemishes that could provide entry points for rot.

Store apples on slatted trays that allow air to circulate, making sure they’re not touching.

You can also wrap up individual fruits in paper so you can store them closer.

Newspaper or tissue paper is fine for this purpose.

Different varieties store for different lengths of time, so keep them separate and eat those that won’t store as long first.

The ideal store is somewhere dark, well-ventilated, and cool but frost-free.

Most garages and sheds are ideal, while basements and attics should be avoided due to either excessive heat, lack of ventilation or low humidity.

Check stored apples regularly, and remove any that are going soft, brown or rotting.

If you’ve got too many apples to store – well, lucky you!

You might like to consider processing your glut into store-cupboard delicacies and homemade drinks .

You can also freeze apples by stewing washed chunks with a dash of water until they are soft.

Once ready, pack the stewed apples into containers, leaving a small space at the top as it will expand slightly when it freezes, and pop into the freezer.

The apple chunks may be used in apple pies, crumbles or strudel.

Or why not cut your fruits into thin slices, then dry them out in a dehydrator to make a deliciously chewy and healthy snack?

Other ideas for excess apples include preserves such as jellies, jams, chutneys and sauces, or why not try your hand at making a refreshing apple juice, country wine or alcoholic cider?

The apple really is an incredibly generous tree.

We’d love to hear your ideas for storing apples, or perhaps you’ve got a favorite apple-based recipe that you’d like to share?

If so, then drop us a comment below.

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